L'Escargot Bistro

3185 Yonge St
Toronto, Ontario
(416) 485-8338

http://www.lescargot.ca/home.html
Google Map

Date: August 19, 2006
What's on the menu: French bistro cuisine
Drinks: Wine list by the glass, 1/2 litre or bottle, Martini's
Atmosphere: Small and quiet, dress is casual to smart casual
Cost: Dinner for 2, under $100 including wine, tax and tip


This dinner began long before we took our first bite of the food. The evening was all about celebrating a friend's birthday and as requested, guests were required to dress as "posh" as possible. Both CFO and I, dressed in matching "posh" gear, found L'Escargot a short walk from our parking spot.

As we walk into the restaurant, we're immediately pointed to the back of the restaurant where the rest of our companions were waiting. L'Escargot is a small restaurant, but it has that comforting feeling you'd expect from a neighbourhood French bistro. The back of the restaurant houses the private dining area, which our friends have booked for the evening. Large metal, almost medieval looking, doors seperate us from the main dining area. The room is spacious enough for 20, but perfect for our group of 14.

We're given a few minutes of chit-chat and catching up before our waiter comes by to take drink orders. I'm tasked the duty of selecting suitable wines for the group, but as I often do, returned the favour to the waiter. An extensive list of international wines by the bottle are available, ranging from $35-200, with most being closer to the $35 side. 2 bottles are quickly found in our budget. A short while later, wine is shown and poured to the table.

On the menu is a small list of classic French items - escargot, French onion soup, bouillabaise, chocolate mousse are among the familiar. L'Escargot offers a nightly 3 course special for $25, which most of the table opts to order. CFO's "table d'hote" includes escargot, grilled salmon and the chocolate mousse. My cravings steer me towards the French onion soup ($7) and a 9oz NY Cut Black Angus Striploin ($23).

The table continued its usual chat clamour, but 10-15 minutes go by and some of our hungry companions start to notice the lack of bread (something every French restaurant should have). Finally 2 large baskets of warm baguettes arrive at our table. Alas, it was worth the wait... crusty warm bread with a chewy center is served with a soft butter. The bread quickly disappears as it is passed around the table.

Not long after, the appetizers arrive. Escargot is the choice for most at the table - served in traditional escargot plates and topped with a bourguignons sauce. The escargot is slightly chewy, but easy enough to eat. Sauce is perfect for dipping the bread with. The French onion soup comes freshly out of the oven. Soup is rich, but a touch too salty. The cheese and bread topping holds nicely with the soup. Both appetizers are comforting, good food.

The lengthy wait between appetizers and mains was bothersome for a hungry few, but when they did arrive, plates came in succession. First to arrive was the grilled salmon served with green beans. Salmon was flakey and moist, but lacking flavour. Accompanying tomato salsa adds freshness to the dish. NY Striploin arrives cooked to your specs, but something does not feel right about this dish. The meat is juiceless and almost cold... not from a choice cow either. Frites on the otherhand were wonderful...crisp and flavourful - condiments need not be added. Some of the best fries in Toronto, but don't ask me, see some of the posters outside L'Escargots windows.

Service at L'Escargot is efficient and friendly. Water pitchers replaced without asking, wine glasses never too empty, bread baskets refilled as needed. Max Ballin, owner, keeps a close eye on our table... never too far away to strike up a conversation, even encouraging us to use our long forgotten French.

Ending our dining adventure was a classic chocolate mousse. The mousse was whipped light, but still creamy and full of chocolate flavour. Good for those not into thick and heavy desserts. Other desserts observed, but not eaten included a crème brûlée and an orange sorbet. Both looked acceptable, but nothing spectacular.

The 3 hour celebration ends with a French inspired happy birthday song and a birthday cake... just in time, before L'Escargot closes and has to kick us out. Reflecting on L'Escargot on a pure food standpoint certainly did not put it at the top of Toronto's French culinary choices, but it's atmosphere and friendly service provided the ideal place for a lively group to celebrate a friend's birthday. Dinner parties are as much about the company of good friends as they are about about the food.

Indecisive diners in the area should give L'Escargot a try - chat up Max and enjoy the inexpensive, simple Parisian fare.


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