Milagro

5 Mercer St
Toronto, Ontario
(416) 850-2855

http://www.milagrorestaurant.com/
Google Map

Date: August 25, 2006
What's on the menu: Mexican
Drinks: Wine list, cocktails (including some specialty margarita's, sangria's), good list of tequila's, Beer
Atmosphere: somewhere between casual and swanky
Cost: $150 for 2 (with tax, tip and drinks)


Ask any Torontonian what the one cuisine in the GTA's diverse ethnic culture that lacks depth and they'll tell you authentic Mexican. It's not as if Toronto has a shortage of Mexican places (we, like most cities, have adopted the safe and reliable Tex/Mex types), but true, nachos free Mexican cooking is something nobody dared venturing into, at least successfully. So with the opening of Milagro, two Mexico City born bothers (Arturo and Andrés Anhalt), brings the hope of a different take on what Mexico has to offer.

Reservations in hand, CFO and I, walk into the restaurant expecting your neighbourhood Mexican cantina. Not so with Milagro, it's decidedly more hip and upscale - deep coloured wood floors, tables and chairs, lighting is dimmed for an intimate feel. Make no mistake though, at the heart of it all Milagro is undoubtedly Mexican - the colour of the walls, high arched-pillars and posters of masked wrestlers remind you of that.

We're quickly shown to our table by a pleasant waitress and shown our menus. Browse through the drink list and you'll find a wide-ranging list of cocktails and tequilas. Specialty margaritas, made with Jose Cuervo Gold, include fruit flavors ranging from strawberry and mango to pomegranate. Overwhelmed by the selections, I leave the drink choice up to our waitress. She comes back with an oversized pomegranate margarita ($12.50). Overly sweet margaritas are what we're used to, but this one is done just right - not too sweet, the tartness of the pomegranate is happily present... add in a fair amount of quality tequila and orange liqueur and you have the makings of a good margarita.

Foods are in arranged in familiar categories, botonas, ceviches, ensaladas, sopas, plato fuertes. To start we order, Taquitos Rosarito (lobster tacos- $16) and Pulpos en Escabeche (marinated octopus - $11.50). Entrusting our waitress, for mains we order the suggested Cochinita Pibil (roasted pulled pork - $25) and Pescado Rodrigo (pan-seared fish fillet - $26). Wondering if we've ordered enough for two big eaters, we're told that mains come in sizable portions.

First to arrive is the octopus. On a smallish plate are pieces of octopus marinated in a serrano vinaigrette. Octopus is tender, tastes fresh with lime juice, but noticeably lacking is the heat from the serrano chilies, perhaps it was just a vinaigrette marinade. Arriving at our table a short while later is the lobster tacos. 3 tacos are served with a black bean spread and topped with tender chunks of lobster, on the side is a fairly hot chipotle salsa. Absent are any remnants of Tex/Mex influences (sour cream, cheese). Tacos are a little bland, but the salsa adds a much needed kick. Homemade tortillas are a nice touch. Both dishes are a decent start, but lack the "wow'ness" factor in its flavours.

Early from the start, Milagros service stands out. From our genuinely friendly waitress to swift food runners, we note the emphasis Milagro has placed on providing a complete dining experience. Small touches, such as wiping the table between courses and changing plates and cutlery are not gone unnoticed.

In the glow of the candle lit room, fellow diners are seen softly chatting away. There's a buzz to the room, but still calm enough to carry-on a conversation. Crowd is diverse with young families, stylish couples and groups of friends out for drinks. Mains arrive together, CFO is served the pan-seared fish fillet and I, the pulled pork. The fish fillet is small, CFO wonders where the sides are, but there are none.... they are ordered separately. It eats like the octopus appetizer with fish replacing octopus, ordinary, not something you'd order again. Pulled pork is plated on a banana leaf and served with black bean spread, pickled red onions, sliced plantain and the homemade tortillas. Pulled pork is moist, but the orange-achiote sauce adds little to its taste. A nicely done pickled red onion, spicy from the habenero, is the best part of the dish. Perhaps expecting too much, but portion sizes at Milagro are small, especially given the price and lack of sides with the mains.

We decide to order another appetizer, Queso Fundido (melted cheese - $8 + $1.50 for optional sautéed mushrooms). Not long after ordering, our dish arrives. Melted cheese is served in a bowl, topped with sautéed mushrooms and accompanied with a large tortillas, unfortunately not made out of masa like the smaller taco counterparts. The cheese is thick and stringy, difficult to portion between the tortillas, a quick bite and we're immediately taken aback by how salty it tastes. We're not sure if the dish is supposed to be this way or if this was just a slip of the hand. Either way we're left disappointed.

Dessert menu is one page list of foods and specialty coffees. Our waitress raves about the chocolate truffle cake. Once again trusting her recommendation, Trufa de Chocolate Maya ($7) is ordered along with a traditional Mexican hot chocolate ($3.50), served regular or spicy. Success is had with the chocolate cake - molten chocolate spews from the centre of the cake. Crust of the cake is spongy and moist, absorbing the melted chocolate. A spicy whipped vanilla cream balances the sweetness. Hot chocolate is served in a large Irish coffee glass, rich with chocolate with a touch of spiciness - an excellent way to end the meal. Absolutely full from the meal, we slowly stagger out the restaurant that is now much busier than when we first arrived. It's proximity to the clubbing district probably puts it in the "meal before partying" realm.

Pondering our experience we're left both happy and disappointed - service is rough around the edges (lack of knowledge about dishes), but sincere and well-meaning. Food is average for our tastes, but perhaps it was a case of ordering the wrong dishes. Prices border unreasonable status. We're giving Milagro the benefit of the doubt though - opened less than a month, there are a few kinks that inevitably need to be worked out. Despite our food complaints Milagro is off to the right start, wooing patrons with service, then providing a taste of authentic, upscale Mexico... tastes most of Toronto is yet to be accustomed to. We'll be back if there's some positive feedback, if not for the food, definitely the service.

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